Don’t mess with Bill Kimball when it’s cold; you’ll likely get an icy reception.
No matter how you slice the Coldspring Branch/Bill Kimball loop trail it is murderous and recommended for experienced hikers. But it is a cobweb cleaner for those who want something more challenging than just a walk in the woods.
The biggest photo op on this roughly five-mile loop trail is a massive rock formation known as El Lieutenant, named for its resemblance to El Capitan at Yosemite National Park.
The Coldspring Branch Trail starts in the Raven Cliff parking lot on U.S. 276, about a mile north of Caesars Head State Park.
Start early on a clear winter day and you’ll likely see the Shining Rock Ridge and Mount Pisgah glowing in the early morning sun from the trail. If you’re lucky that 6,000-foot ridgeline will be glowing pink with a fresh coat of snow.
Coldspring Branch starts on the south end of the parking lot at a kiosk with trail information and signup cards. The trail uses orange blazes.
Day hikers are required to fill out the card, put the white copy in the box. When the trip is done hikers must deposit the pink copy that they carry with them on the trail.
It seems like a lot of trouble, but considering the remoteness of the trails at the upper end of Jones Gap and the level of difficulty it can be a lifesaver.
It’s about a half mile from the parking lot to the junction with the Bill Kimball Trail (pink blazes) and this is the first real decision hikers face.
Continue on Coldspring and it is a moderate 2-mile descent to the intersection with Bill Kimball and a murderous 1,000-foot ascent back to the junction. Most of that 1,000 foot elevation gain comes in a few tenths of a mile.
Either way, Bill Kimball is the road less traveled. Most hikers on Coldspring Branch stay on that orange-blaze trail and hook up with the Jones Gap Trail at the Middle Saluda River.
This adds about 1.5 miles to the loop, but it is far less strenuous than Bill Kimball.
On this day it was the road less traveled, first.
From the junction Bill Kimball climbs moderately for about a half mile to a high point with spectacular views of the northern side of the Middle Saluda Valley.
After that, like a freight train beginning a run through a mountain pass, hikers begin an ever increasingly steep descent to the base of El Lieutenant.
When it’s cold this is where the first signs of trouble on the trail become apparent.
Entering into a dense laurel and rhododendron thicket the ground is frozen as hard as concrete. It rings hollow underfoot. Then the first seeping rock outcrop appears covered in a six-inch sheet of ice.
Normally, these seeps are not a problem for through hikers since they seldom produce enough moisture to form more than a damp spot on the trail.
After scrambling down through a quarter mile of thicket, in one spot Jones Gap officials have strung a chain handhold to keep hikers from falling, you come to the base of El Lieutenant.
And here is where Bill Kimball gets his revenge on unwary hikers.
Normally this section of trail is dry. The seeps high on the side of the rock face mostly evaporate before they reach this rocky ledge.
In cold weather they form great sheets of ice that break off in the slightly warmer daytime temperatures out on the rock.
Those sheets of ice tumble down to the trail and pile up like broken dishes, effectively blocking the trail.
Nothing to do but have lunch and listen to the croaking of ravens high above; then starts the murderous 500-foot climb back up.
At the top a crow-sized pileated woodpecker drums on a branch as he hunts for his supper in a decaying hardwood. Lunch for him, but not for the ravens, at least not today.


